As with everything I do with horses the main criteria I’m looking for is RELAXATION with this technique. If we can set the horse up with relaxation before the vet comes then their neck muscles can be relaxed and the needle will go in without pain. Relaxed for this means low head and even just a wee bit towards you in an arc. Practising this regularly so that the horse will learn to it on command will help the horse, and vet, have an easier time with it all.
I’ve been asked a few times to show what I would do to help a horse relax and get ready for a dentist so here is a short ‘how to’ video on what I would do. If I had to do this for the dentist I would start months before they came making sure each day was better than the last. Most of the ‘unfamiliar’ things we do with horses can all be helped out with two techniques…’Approach & Retreat’ and a ton of ‘Familiarisation’. But remember that your horse may be less relaxed with someone they don’t know doing this invasive procedure so make sure you are there for your horse when the dentist comes to help the process go a bit more smoothly.
Also remember that these things do not happen over night, preparation is the key and taking the time to get out there and practice until you horse is more and more relaxed (low headed, no movement in feet and tongue), responding not reacting and happy with the procedure. If you really have trouble then take it very very slowly and if you need to sedate your horse then that might be the best solution until you can get better around his mouth.
One of the most useful techniques I use and it can be so much fun to play with. I even use this to groom our big horse as he’s 18.2hh and standing on a barrel or mounting block to clean him whilst he moves around for me is a great example of using the techniques for a purpose and a great connection.
This first video is of me and Solly who has not been played with for about 3 months over Winter. He’s got sticky feet and is a bit mouthy so I thought it would be interesting for you to see how to sidle to the mounting block with a slightly uncooperative horse first. The second video, done the next day, is of Solly, Tara and then Stormy all sidling to a large stone as a mounting block, just to show how good training is not about tricks but about communicating with the horses mind to his feet.
If you’re starting to try this out remember a few things:
1) Always have a good drive away before trying to ask horse to come towards you
2) Always reward (with a rest, a rub and a good boy/girl) for the SLIGHTEST try. I ask for more with mine as they have already been trained and they know what I’m asking but can be sluggish or dis-connected.
3) If horse goes INTO the pressure they are either not understanding or being polite and not wanting to come into you (which hopefully you’ve already taught them) SO don’t get frustrated just keep gently asking for the slightest try and reward immediately they try, even if it’s just a shift in weight.
4) Progress on one side to start with (which ever side you and horse find easier) and then ask for the other side so that when you’ve progressed enough the horse should be able to go from sidling to the right and to the left equally.
5) Try sidling up to many other things as it’s not about the block it’s about the techniques and communication of moving your horses feet about. Try from a large stone, a gate, put horse into ditch, a block in a different place.
6) If your horse is not understanding your ask to come to you and goes around and around the block then place the block against the fence so that he can only go so far, hold the lead rope underneath the chin and that arm straight and strong (like he’s tied up) so that he can only move his hindquarters out or towards, this will help stop forward movement or circling.
Video 1
Video 2